Prada Inspired

I love Miuccia Prada. 
I love the work she does, the process behind the work she does, the thinking behind the process, the original idea. She amazes me on a regular basis.
I knock off Miuccia Prada, or Margiela, or Jil Sander or whoever, not because I would buy the clothes they make, but because it's a way of getting a hint of what goes on in their minds and understand their creative process which I admire greatly. 

Making this raincoat was unlike anything I've made before.
If you want to make one, you'll need some special tools, a pattern with very tiny seam allowances, in this case I modified Burda 09/2007 #104 to eliminate de darts and lifted the hood from McCall's 2980, and 25m of bias binding. All the seams are encased in bias, sewn wrong side to wrong side then felled. Please feel free to not follow the usual order of construction as building a coat right side out is mind boggling. But beware of mistakes you might make as all the pinholes will show.
I wanted pretty, so this thing is probably not totally waterproof, but if it's your thing, there is some tape for that. 

Cuben Fiber is a special material :
- It's hard to find. Especially the breathable stuff, but if some people around you sail or hike, they might be able to help. You can buy some at Bear Paw Design or Quest Outfitters.
- It's expensive.
- You can't cut it! It will dull your scissors, the best way to cut it is with a rotary. Get a new blade when finished.
- It will dull your sewing needle. Throw it away when finished.
- You can't pin it. Pattern weights are de rigeur, pin with tape.
- You can write on it. I used a pencil and a ball point pen to mark it.
- It has no give. So you won't be able to correct your mistake by pulling and tugging slightly on the fabric, it will not ease so choose you pattern accordingly. Small seam allowances are a big help, mine were 1cm.
- There is no bias, weave or weft so you can do some creative cutting.
- It can't stand the heat. Do not iron, ever.
- The less holes you poke in it the better it will resist in time. Use your longest stitch.
- You will not be able to hide your loose ends. I burned mine with a lighter like they do when sailmaking.
- It's noisy and naturally crinkly.
- It's extremely lightweight. The zipper weighs more than the rest and the whole thing is 167g. I will take it on my travels.

Now I'm just hoping, as this is not the breathable Cuben Fiber, that I haven't made a sauna!
Thank you Elie for your leftovers!

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