Bodice Blocks, The Return / Patrons de Base, Le Retour


Remember when I made a bunch of blocks in October?
I got a tad depressed by them and put them aside. This is will be the 3rd one and I am slowly getting where I feel good about them. This is excruciatingly long because I'd rather sew real garments, but I'm pretty sure that if I make a couple of good blocks, it'll help me make what I see in my head. So once in a while, I pull them out and work on it. 
I still have to draft the sleeve for this one, so I don't dare touch the back yet, but it does look a bit large. Is it?
What do you think? Have you made your own blocks? Do you have fitting tips for these? Am I overfitting? Shouldn't those front darts be smack on the pointy tip of my breast? 
Any help will be good help.


Vous vous rappelez quand j'ai fait des patrons de base en octobre?
J'ai trouvé le résultat déprimant et je les ai mis de côté. Ceci est la 3ème version et tout doucement, je crois que je vais arriver à les aimer. C'est très long parce que je préfère fabriquer des vêtements, mais je persévère parce que je sais que ça va vraiment m'aider à faire ce que je vois dans ma tête. Alors je les ressors de temps en temps, je les travaille un peu et je les repose.
Je dois dessiner une manche pour celui-ci c'est pour ça que je ne veux pas trop toucher au dos mais il est un peu grand non?
Qu'est-ce que vous en pensez? Vous avez fait votre patron de base? Vous avez une opinion pour l'amélioration de celui-ci? Suis-je trop pointilleuse? Les pinces devant ne devraient-elle pas être directement sur la pointe de la poitrine?
Toute votre aide sera précieuse.





8 commentaires :

  1. the front looks great - i've been meaning to get around to doing this but not got there yet! the front darts should fall about 1" from your bust apex (unless you love the nipply look!). it does look like you could lose a bit from the middle of the back and perhaps from the underarm. could you overlap the seam at the underarm and see if you can pinch out the excess there?

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  2. Hélas je ne serai pas d'une grande aide pour toi, même quand je fais du moulage je finis toujours par prendre un patron existant pour les manches :/ et pour les pinces ben vu que la plupart du temps je fais des coupes princesse ^^" mais esthétiquement je ferais arriver ça jusqu'a la poitrine oui. Sauf si c'est un tissu rigide pour pas que ça fasse pointu sur le téton :p

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    Réponses
    1. C'est un patron de base, les modifications aux pinces viennent après une fois que la base est faite. Bisous!

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  3. I'd be very happy to have a bodice block that fit so well! I see there's a bit of looseness in the back, but I wonder that it might be necessary ... what happens when you reach forward? I find I need a little ease in the back, even on a sleeveless garment, for my own comfort at least.

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    Réponses
    1. I'll put the sleeves in and make a decision, I am indeed thinking that a little ease there will help me move better, we'll have an answer in the next installment...

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  4. On fitting the muslin my suggestions would be 1) the right side of the front appears to be slightly shorter than the left. This can be caused by our bodies not being symmetrical. The waistline needs to be horizontal to the floor. The cut front appears in the photos to sit on your waistline so you should add seam allowances when needed. 2) the back is longer than the front when looking at the side view and sits lower than your actual waist. I am thinking that is actually causing what appears to be excess to the back. I think that if you folded up the bottom of the center back horizontal to the floor all the way around the waistline and equaling the front, you would be getting rid of the back excess. Since the front edge sits on the waistline without seam allowance make sure that the same is done on the back; no seam allowance. (I would fold it rather than cut since this would be a test of this solution. If a shorter center back seam does solve the excess back then you can cut).

    The higher cut/fit at the bottom of the armhole should allow the room for movement and not necessarily more fabric in the back. From what I see in the photos your armholes appear fine to me. Of course that depends not only on the photos but whether or not you have seam allowances in the muslin around the armhole.

    But, really, I think you have a splendid start especially considering you are doing your own fitting by yourself. That is so difficult and takes more muslins than when fitting someone else. Kudos to you for attempting the basic muslin on your own.

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